Gear Guide: Petzl Harnesses

High Performance Climbing Harnesses from Petzl

With so many different harnesses on the market, it can be a challenge to choose the right one.  All rock climbing harnesses from major brands are certified to be safe and hold up to the immense forces generated during a fall, therefore how comfortable a harness is, how light a harness is, and the various additional features —like adjustable leg loops, ice clipper slots and gear loops— are the differentiating factors between different brands and models or harnesses. Many brands have very specialized harnesses for ice climbing, big wall climbing or sport climbing without a clear option for climbers who like to do a bit of everything. Petzl decided to take a different approach, designing a series of harnesses that are lightweight and sleek enough for high-performance sport climbing, comfortable enough for long multi-pitch days, with the gear loops and ice clipper slots to hold plenty of trad gear and ice screws. Petzl's line of all-purpose climbing and mountaineering harnesses are the the perfect option for the avid climber who wants one harness for a variety of climbing applications. 1   Petzl's core climbing harness line is made up of for harnesses: the men's Sama and women's Selena, which each utilize a lightweight, comfortable design and features for holding gear, reducing wear and improving versatility, and the Adjama and Luna, which are nearly identical models with adjustable leg loops. All Petzl harnesses mentioned here are currently on sale!

Key Terminology and Technology-

ENDOFRAME Technology:

Petzl's line of climbing harnesses are high performance, yet extremely comfortable due to the inclusion of ENDOFRAME technology (not included in the Hirundos). By utilizing a double webbing frame and anatomical shapes in the waistbelt and leg loops, Petzl harnesses with ENDOFRAME technology distribute weight effectively across the entire harness for exceptional comfort during long multipitch routes with hanging belays, projecting a sport route, or during falls.

Ice Clipper Slots:

Many other harness manufacturers design products that are specialized for a particular style of climbing; often eschewing certain features on their sport climbing harnesses that are essential for ice and alpine climbing. Petzl took a different route, by including ice clipper slots on all of their performance harness models. These slots will accommodate ice clipper accessories, such as Petzl's own CARITOOL, for racking ice screws or holding tools. Petzl's harness line is lightweight enough for sport climbing and comfortable enough for multi-pitch and trad climbing, while the inclusion of ice clipper slots adds multi-sport, 4-season versatility.

Dyneema Tie-In Points:

To extend the life of their harnesses and improve durability, Petzl incorporated Dyneema reinforcements to the harnesses tie-in points. The tie-in points are usually the part of a harness that wears out earliest due to contact with the rope, but the inclusion of Dyneema to the hard points allow the rope to move with less resistance and friction.

DoubleBack Buckles:

Petzl's line of harnesses incorporates DoubleBack buckle technology for easy to use, quick adjustment of the waistbelt and leg loops (leg loops adjust on the Adjama and Luna only). DoubleBack buckles are ultra-lightweight and durable, as well as secure and safe.

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Sama and Selena- unnamed (6)

The base models in the Petzl harness line are two lightweight, yet fully featured harness models for a variety of climbing styles. Both the men's Sama and women's Selena utilize ENDOFRAME technology for all-day comfort, as well as breathable, wicking padding without seams for temperature regulation and reduced chafing. Both harnesses have elastic leg loops for freedom of movement. The Sama and Selena both feature two ice clipper slots, as well as four large gear loops that are rigid in the front and soft in the back for use with a pack. Each of these harnesses are ideal for sport climbing due to their light weight construction and elastic leg loops, but the inclusion of ice clipper slots, robust gear loops and comfortable design make them capable options for trad, multi-pitch, alpine and ice climbing as well. Shop the men's Sama and women's Selena!

Adjama and Luna-unnamed (5)

Petzl's Adjama for men and Luna for women are nearly identical harnesses to the Sama and Selena, but with the addition of adjustable leg loops. For the climber who has larger thighs and finds the elastic leg loops on the Sama and Selena too tight, or who is a serious mountaineer or ice climber and therefore needs to utilize a variety of layers, the Adjama and Luna harnesses are ideal. The Adjama and Luna use quick adjusting DoubleBack buckles on each leg loop for a secure, dialed fit. Both the Adjama and Luna utilize the same comfortable ENDOFRAME technology, ice clipper slots, gear loops and general design as the  Sama and Selena, but with the added versatility of adjustable leg loops. This is the perfect all-around harness for the avid ice climber or mountaineer who demands performance and wants a single piece of gear for all styles of climbing. Shop the men's Adjama and women's Luna!

Hirundos- hirundos

If the Adjama and Luna lean toward climbers who partake extensively in both ice and sport climbing, the Hirundos leans in the opposite direction. While the Hirundos is an ideal option for ultralight alpine climbers and technical mixed climbers, it shines for sport climbing. That's why the Hirundos is often seen on the likes of Chris Sharma and other elite sport climbers. The Hirundos features a thinner waistbelt and leg loops to cut down on weight and bulk, while utilizing the same DoubleBack buckle, elastic leg loops, gear loop design and ice clipper slots as the other harnesses in the line. The Hirundos uses a thinner, modified style of frame construction that provides surprising comfort from a harness as minimal as this. If you are a sport climber or Alpinist who values a combination of light weight design and a high level of performance, the Hirundos is the perfect choice Shop the Hirundos!